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Finally finished the tacho adapter. Pics can be found here: Tacho adapter
You can't buy such a unit, so you have to make your own. Made some nice drawings to. If you need to built this tacho adapter, here you have the pic of the adapter, as I received it from Ray Hall. schematic from Ray Hall.
I made my own drawing, which you can find here: schematic for my Celica.
Still have to check the base timing, but I do not have the time at the moment.

Checked timing today, and I discovered that with my new setup, base timing was 17, where it should be 10.
Swapped the red and the blue wire, at the distributor, too, since Dennis Heath discovered that the blue wire is for the cylinder pulse signal. After doing that, we noticed that base timing went to 14.
Anyway, we adjusted base timing back to 10, and my knock device is silent now.
Soon we are going to move the Bosch coil further away from the signal supplier, than I will be lost from the interference too.
If things are going well after that, the HKS 264 are going in.
On the way home, I noticed that after 4.000 rpm the tacho needle is dropping to zero.... sigh... so more work to do.

Made a new map, with less cells. According to the Autronic forum it isn't neccesary to use such a lot cells. So, let's find out.
Adjusted A/F target too, selected the correct injector, and moved rev limit up to 7.500 rpm. I will start tuning the next drive and use the new Autotune windows software, in stead of the old dos version.
Tacho still dead after 4,000 rpm.

Finally solved the tacho problem. We tried several options with the tacho adapter, but nothings did work. Then, after I did write an topic on the Autronic forum, some really nice guy from Athen gave the solution (at least we thought...). I had to remove the inline resistor on the tacho print. Nice, to get there you have almost to remove the whole dash, disasamble the combinationmeter, unscrew the tacho, and remove or disable the 43 K Ohm resistor. That was another night work.... :)
Anyway, after I did this, the tacho still did not read after 4,000 rpm.... ......... But now Ray Hall, from Autronic, did get an inginieus idea. In the far past, he had this before, tend to be a wrong capacitor. And guess what, mine did have this wrong capacitor. So, before I am going to sent the CDI back to Australia, I try to install an good capacitor myself. And happy me, the tacho is working now.
Looking at this, we can draw two conclusions. If you are installing an CDI on to your 3S-GTE, with stock Toyota tacho, you can either remove the 43 K Ohm resistor, or make yourself an tacho adapter, like mentioned above. Both solutions will work.

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